Handyman Services specialize in home repairs and small remodeling projects. Handyman Services are equipped to handle a number of home repairs on a homeowner’s to-do list, including squeaky doors, running toilets, drywall repairs, painting and more.
Handyman Services Number one Tip: Never Reuse Old Spackle!
When preparing walls to be painted or wallpapered, you might find it necessary to patch some holes. A good handyman knows the importance of using the right product on the right surface. If the walls to be repaired are plaster, then the old-time spackle is fine to use on minor holes. Painting Contractors prefer to use a softer, lighter weight product for use on drywall such as Durabond.
Though most people try to be conservative with products they pay for, it is better to use a new container of spackle. Maybe you have some left over from the last time you patched some holes. Most likely, this was some time ago and you will find that the spackle has dried and thickened. The professional handyman knows to just throw this out, but the average homeowner will want to try to rejuvenate this product by adding water or mixing in some new spackling. This will be like adding sand to the new product. The product will be less effective; it will lose strength and smoothing ability. It will come off the trowel lumpy and be difficult to smooth out.
The old-time spackle isn’t as workable as newer, lighter weight products that are available today. It doesn’t smooth easily and it dries very hard. This is OK on plaster walls, but on paper-covered drywall, one is likely to tear the paper as they try to smooth the spackle. A newer age, lightweight spackle is a more workable product that dries quickly and can be painted within 30 minutes. Very small nail holes that you run across while painting can be filled and painted immediately.
In addition to patching holes, the rest of the surface must also be prepared. Before painting on a surface previously painted with latex paint, use a deglosser or liquid sandpaper to remove the gloss and clean the surface. This will make the next coat of paint adhere more firmly to the surface with minimal, if any, sanding required. The tackiness will normally disappear within an hour. Oil-based paints should be lightly sanded or primed with a quality primer like Kilz, before applying a fresh coat of latex paint.
Your freshly painted or newly wall papered room will look great for years if the surface is properly prepared. The extra time and effort spent on preparing the surface is well worth it in the end. The paint goes on smooth, covers evenly and adheres to the surface, for a durable finish that looks great. The same applies to wallpaper. With these tips you will be proud to have a freshly painted or newly wallpapered room that looks like it was done by a professional handyman or a painting contractor.
Paul Doughty owns HandyPro Handyman Services, specializing in home repairs and improvements for consumers and businesses in Manitou Springs, Fountain, Monument, Colorado Springs and nearby cities and communities in El Paso County, Colorado.
80829, 80817, 80132, 80902, 80903, 80904, 80905, 80906, 80907, 80908, 80909, 80910, 80911, 80912, 80913, 80915, 80916, 80917, 80918, 80919, 80920, 80921, 80922, 80923, 80924
Carpentry, Plaster, Drywall, Acoustic Ceilings, Grout tub, fix leaky faucet, home warranty/maintenance, paint home, caulk bathtub, replace locks, garage doors, cabinets, countertops, fix running toilet, repair squeaky door, install molding, security services, stained glass, door repair/install, drywall repair, painting, kitchen, insulation, concrete, masonry, repair gutters, remove wallpaper, replace ceiling fan, caulk awning, siding repair, install shelves, organizers, ceramic tile, window well covers, replace bathroom fan, draperies, blinds, shades, glass, mirrors, decks, and much more…just ask!
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Handyman Services provide Handy Tips
Handyman Services in Colorado Springs provide handy tips for homeowners. Glues and adhesives are used for many home repairs, and are available in a wide variety of types, including wood glues, one-part and two-part epoxies, hot melt adhesives, contact cements and more. Glues and adhesives are used for joining different types of material. Some projects require a quick, strong set where, with others, a slower setting time is optimal for repositioning and adjustments. Here are some handy tips on using other products as an adhesive.
Auto Body Filler
Believe it or not, auto body filler is a great for a variety of wood gluing and other repairs. It’s an excellent wood filler and adhesive; it is waterproof, weatherproof, it sets up quickly, bonds well and can be routed or sanded cleanly. It’s a great time saver because it can be applied, sanded and painted within an hour of application.
As auto body filler sets, it gradually gets firmer and much harder than the materials you are bonding, so be sure to check it often and sand it smooth before it becomes too hard, or you will never get it smooth and flush. It is easy to cut or use a planer during earlier stages of setting, but becomes unworkable once it is completely set. Of course it’s no problem to use power tools like a drill or saw when it reaches full hardness.
Auto body filler sticks well to itself, so you can add more to your patch if you need another coat to fill imperfections from the first coat. You can also use other wood or wall patching materials to create a smooth surface. Thinner auto body products are available for the final coat.
Use wood chips when filling large holes to reduce the amount of filler needed. Use screws to strengthen the repair and keep the filler in place, making sure screw heads are at least 1/8” beneath the surface filler.
Minwax is a high performance wood filler that is almost identical to auto body filler, but it is a light brown wood tone. It comes in smaller quantities and cost more, but it is convenient for smaller projects. For larger jobs, you can save money by using auto body filler.
Household Caulk
In some cases household caulk, including silicone, latex and polyurethane can be used as a waterproof adhesive. They are flexible, allowing movement for adjusting clamps and repositioning materials to be fastened, yet still maintaining an excellent waterproof seal for tubs, showers, or windows.
Be sure to use enough for a waterproof seal; do not spread too thin. Unlike wood glue, caulk is not designed to be applied thin. Most caulk does not set hard and bond firm, so it is not appropriate for all projects. Some caulks are only intended to be used as caulks. Check the label; if it doesn’t say “adhesive caulk” it is most likely not to be used as an adhesive.
There is nothing wrong with being creative and innovative to save a trip to the store when you’re already in the middle of a project, but use common sense and be careful. Many products are for single uses only and should not be substituted. Be sure to read labels and use caution when using any type of adhesive product. Some adhesives can be caustic when used with the wrong materials; others may emit harmful fumes and require proper ventilation or wearing a protective mask.
HandyPro Handyman Services is a one-stop professional, honest and trusted handyman service who does a wide variety of jobs; large and small; all with high-quality workmanship.
Paul Doughty owns HandyPro Handyman Services, specializing in home repairs and improvements for consumers and businesses in Manitou Springs, Fountain, Monument, Colorado Springs and nearby cities and communities in El Paso County, Colorado.
80829, 80817, 80132, 80902, 80903, 80904, 80905, 80906, 80907, 80908, 80909, 80910, 80911, 80912, 80913, 80915, 80916, 80917, 80918, 80919, 80920, 80921, 80922, 80923, 80924
Carpentry, Plaster, Drywall, Acoustic Ceilings, Grout tub, fix leaky faucet, home warranty/maintenance, paint home, caulk bathtub, replace locks, garage doors, cabinets, countertops, fix running toilet, repair squeaky door, install molding, security services, stained glass, door repair/install, drywall repair, painting, kitchen, insulation, concrete, masonry, repair gutters, remove wallpaper, replace ceiling fan, caulk awning, siding repair, install shelves, organizers, ceramic tile, window well covers, replace bathroom fan, draperies, blinds, shades, glass, mirrors, decks, and much more…just ask!
Auto Body Filler
Believe it or not, auto body filler is a great for a variety of wood gluing and other repairs. It’s an excellent wood filler and adhesive; it is waterproof, weatherproof, it sets up quickly, bonds well and can be routed or sanded cleanly. It’s a great time saver because it can be applied, sanded and painted within an hour of application.
As auto body filler sets, it gradually gets firmer and much harder than the materials you are bonding, so be sure to check it often and sand it smooth before it becomes too hard, or you will never get it smooth and flush. It is easy to cut or use a planer during earlier stages of setting, but becomes unworkable once it is completely set. Of course it’s no problem to use power tools like a drill or saw when it reaches full hardness.
Auto body filler sticks well to itself, so you can add more to your patch if you need another coat to fill imperfections from the first coat. You can also use other wood or wall patching materials to create a smooth surface. Thinner auto body products are available for the final coat.
Use wood chips when filling large holes to reduce the amount of filler needed. Use screws to strengthen the repair and keep the filler in place, making sure screw heads are at least 1/8” beneath the surface filler.
Minwax is a high performance wood filler that is almost identical to auto body filler, but it is a light brown wood tone. It comes in smaller quantities and cost more, but it is convenient for smaller projects. For larger jobs, you can save money by using auto body filler.
Household Caulk
In some cases household caulk, including silicone, latex and polyurethane can be used as a waterproof adhesive. They are flexible, allowing movement for adjusting clamps and repositioning materials to be fastened, yet still maintaining an excellent waterproof seal for tubs, showers, or windows.
Be sure to use enough for a waterproof seal; do not spread too thin. Unlike wood glue, caulk is not designed to be applied thin. Most caulk does not set hard and bond firm, so it is not appropriate for all projects. Some caulks are only intended to be used as caulks. Check the label; if it doesn’t say “adhesive caulk” it is most likely not to be used as an adhesive.
There is nothing wrong with being creative and innovative to save a trip to the store when you’re already in the middle of a project, but use common sense and be careful. Many products are for single uses only and should not be substituted. Be sure to read labels and use caution when using any type of adhesive product. Some adhesives can be caustic when used with the wrong materials; others may emit harmful fumes and require proper ventilation or wearing a protective mask.
HandyPro Handyman Services is a one-stop professional, honest and trusted handyman service who does a wide variety of jobs; large and small; all with high-quality workmanship.
Paul Doughty owns HandyPro Handyman Services, specializing in home repairs and improvements for consumers and businesses in Manitou Springs, Fountain, Monument, Colorado Springs and nearby cities and communities in El Paso County, Colorado.
80829, 80817, 80132, 80902, 80903, 80904, 80905, 80906, 80907, 80908, 80909, 80910, 80911, 80912, 80913, 80915, 80916, 80917, 80918, 80919, 80920, 80921, 80922, 80923, 80924
Carpentry, Plaster, Drywall, Acoustic Ceilings, Grout tub, fix leaky faucet, home warranty/maintenance, paint home, caulk bathtub, replace locks, garage doors, cabinets, countertops, fix running toilet, repair squeaky door, install molding, security services, stained glass, door repair/install, drywall repair, painting, kitchen, insulation, concrete, masonry, repair gutters, remove wallpaper, replace ceiling fan, caulk awning, siding repair, install shelves, organizers, ceramic tile, window well covers, replace bathroom fan, draperies, blinds, shades, glass, mirrors, decks, and much more…just ask!
Saturday, December 26, 2009
Handyman Services: About Glues and Adhesives
Glues and adhesives come in many types and have many uses. Special glues hold things together that cannot be fastened with nails or screws. There are many bonding agents available for use on certain materials. There are some multi-purpose glues and adhesives, but there is no one product that does it all. A handyman carries a variety of adhesives suited for different uses.
Hot Melt Adhesive
Hot melt adhesive is fast setting, but it is not a very strong adhesive and it must be applied thickly. It is not ideal for certain woodworking projects where a strong bond and a nice looking finish are required. It is good for some craft projects or for preliminary gluing to hold things together for fastening with screws or nails. There are many types of hot melt adhesives that are stronger than hardware or craft store products. Seaming tape used by carpet installers is one example.
Hot glue guns are very easy to use. Plug the gun in and allow time for it to heat up then squeeze the trigger to apply the adhesive. Be very careful; the glue is very hot and can cause serious burns. Press the parts to be glued together and hold or clamp till set.
If the glue stick doesn’t feed properly, it may need a push. Feeding too much at once causes the mechanism to slip against the stick until more of the glue melts. If the stick is almost used up, the gun may need a second stick to push the first through.
The setting times of different hot glues can vafry. Some dry almost instantly, making it impossible to reposition the parts to be glued. This type is useful when speed is important. Slower setting glues are better when it may take time to position the parts.
Hot glue must be applied thickly and sticks best when not squeezed too thin, so it is not appropriate for fine woodworking. There are stronger glues designed for this purpose that allow for the repositioning time needed to apply clamps.
Epoxy Adhesives
Epoxy adhesives are a two-part plastic resin glue that will set quickly and produce a very strong bond. The resin and hardener chemically react when mixed to produce a strong bond to most any clean surface. There are also one-part epoxy glues that are designed for professional use. Heat is used to start the setting reaction rather than a chemical hardener.
Epoxies set hard and fill gaps, adding strength and stiffness to parts being glued, which is great for some materials, but not appropriate for non-rigid materials such as fabrics and flexible plastics. Epoxies are OK for wood, but in some cases wood glue is a better choice, unless a quick set is necessary.
Epoxies are used to set bolts in concrete floors to stabilize vibrating machinery and for some types of plumbing repairs. Various metal additives are used in some epoxies for material compatibility. Steel, aluminum, bronze or titanium may be added for repairs to metals. Other epoxy fillers are used for restoring strength to rotted wood or wood damaged by carpenter ants and termites.
Wood Glue
There are many types of wood glue designed to set slowly or quickly depending on the project and your needs. Wood glue sets thin so there no gaps between parts. It is available for interior and water resistant, exterior use. The three basic types of wood glue are PVA (polyvinyl acetate), polyurethane and hide glue.
PVA glues are the traditional wood glues and the most commonly used. They provide a strong bond between wood products but will not bond strongly to other materials such as metal or plastic. It is important to use clamps to hold parts firmly until the glue dries and sets. Any movement during setting time will cause breaks in the bond. PVA’s do not stick well to other glues, so they are not useful in repairing furniture where old glue is the problem. Though the directions will say to remove all old glue before use, this is difficult or impossible to do efficiently for a long lasting repair.
PVA’s are not suitable as a primary adhesive for edge gluing or joining boards to create a wide surface like a table or countertop. Without other fasteners like screws, nails or dowels, they will eventually break apart. PVA glue is not completely waterproof; however, some PVAs are water and mildew resistant.
Polyurethane Glue
Polyurethane glue is one of the best waterproof glues available. It will adhere to wood, metal, stone, ceramic and plastics. It reacts chemically with moisture in the objects being glued, causing expansion and filling cracks for strong, solid glue joint. If products being glued are dry, lightly moisten them to promote this chemical reaction.
With polyurethane glue you will get better results when sanding or staining that with other wood glues. Most other adhesives act as a sealer and do not accept stain. Polyurethane glue has a longer setting time than other glues, allowing time for adjusting clamps and repositioning parts to be glued.
Polyurethane glue has its drawbacks. It expands, causing a mess when it oozes from the glue joint. It is not as easily wiped away as other wood glues, and it’s messy to use. It’s best to wear latex glove when working it or your hands will quickly become sloppy and sticky. Keep alcohol handy for clean up and wiping excess glue away as you work. Once it is dry, it is very difficult to remove and must be cut or sanded away. If it dries on your skin, you can use an abrasive soap, or just wait until it eventually wears off.
Polyurethane has the tendency to harden in the container, once opened, making it difficult to store and use later. This is because moist air becomes trapped in the container. You can try pouring a small amount of mineral spirits into the container when storing, but do not forget to pour it off before using.
Hide glue
Hide glues are made from animal products and are great for making cabinets and furniture. They are available in different setting times for different projects. Some projects require a slower setting time to allow for adjustments. Once set, it is very strong and durable. Hide glues can be reactivated with moisture. When restoring furniture you can remove the old glue with steam. This sensitivity to moisture can cause furniture to fall apart if it is stored in damp areas. The finish applied to furniture will help to prevent this reaction.
Hide glue is not generally available in hardware stores. It is difficult to use and doesn’t have a very long shelf life. It requires heating and mixing to get the right consistency for the job. It has almost become obsolete due to the availability of many other glue products for the average do-it-yourselfer.
Contact Adhesive
Contact adhesive, also known as contact cement, is a special adhesive for gluing nonporous materials. It is commonly used for attaching laminate to particle board for kitchen and bathroom countertops. It works for this purpose because it dries by quick evaporation of a flammable solvent. Other glues would require clamping the materials for a very long time as moisture from the glues would not be able to easily escape for drying and setting. Contact adhesives are already dry before assembly, so this does not create a problem.
Once applied and allowed to dry, the parts can be assembled in minutes and used immediately. There is no room for error; once stuck, it’s stuck for good, leaving no opportunity for repositioning, so careful planning is crucial for a successful finish. Disassembly of glued parts requires damaging the parts.
Follow instructions carefully when using this product. Some materials require a priming coat of adhesive to pre-seal the material to create a strong bond. Problems result from not allowing the adhesive to dry fully before assembly or waiting too long before assembly. Applying too much or not enough also causes a problem.
Some adhesives are flammable; others can emit harmful fumes and require proper ventilation. Some adhesives are only designed to be used with certain materials and can be caustic to other materials. Some adhesives can be harmful if they come into contact with your skin. Use the right adhesive for the right project and follow all instructions to avoid injury to your self or damage to the materials you’re working with.
These tips are being provided by Paul Doughty, owner of HandyPro Handyman Services in El Paso County, Colorado. HandyPro Handyman Services is a one-stop professional, honest and trusted handyman service that does a wide variety of jobs, large and small; all with high-quality, professional workmanship.
Paul Doughty performs minor repairs and improvements for homeowners and associations, businesses, apartment complexes and condominiums in Manitou Springs, Fountain, Monument, Colorado Springs and nearby cities and communities in El Paso County, Colorado.
80829, 80817, 80132, 80902, 80903, 80904, 80905, 80906, 80907, 80908, 80909, 80910, 80911, 80912, 80913, 80915, 80916, 80917, 80918, 80919, 80920, 80921, 80922, 80923, 80924
Hot Melt Adhesive
Hot melt adhesive is fast setting, but it is not a very strong adhesive and it must be applied thickly. It is not ideal for certain woodworking projects where a strong bond and a nice looking finish are required. It is good for some craft projects or for preliminary gluing to hold things together for fastening with screws or nails. There are many types of hot melt adhesives that are stronger than hardware or craft store products. Seaming tape used by carpet installers is one example.
Hot glue guns are very easy to use. Plug the gun in and allow time for it to heat up then squeeze the trigger to apply the adhesive. Be very careful; the glue is very hot and can cause serious burns. Press the parts to be glued together and hold or clamp till set.
If the glue stick doesn’t feed properly, it may need a push. Feeding too much at once causes the mechanism to slip against the stick until more of the glue melts. If the stick is almost used up, the gun may need a second stick to push the first through.
The setting times of different hot glues can vafry. Some dry almost instantly, making it impossible to reposition the parts to be glued. This type is useful when speed is important. Slower setting glues are better when it may take time to position the parts.
Hot glue must be applied thickly and sticks best when not squeezed too thin, so it is not appropriate for fine woodworking. There are stronger glues designed for this purpose that allow for the repositioning time needed to apply clamps.
Epoxy Adhesives
Epoxy adhesives are a two-part plastic resin glue that will set quickly and produce a very strong bond. The resin and hardener chemically react when mixed to produce a strong bond to most any clean surface. There are also one-part epoxy glues that are designed for professional use. Heat is used to start the setting reaction rather than a chemical hardener.
Epoxies set hard and fill gaps, adding strength and stiffness to parts being glued, which is great for some materials, but not appropriate for non-rigid materials such as fabrics and flexible plastics. Epoxies are OK for wood, but in some cases wood glue is a better choice, unless a quick set is necessary.
Epoxies are used to set bolts in concrete floors to stabilize vibrating machinery and for some types of plumbing repairs. Various metal additives are used in some epoxies for material compatibility. Steel, aluminum, bronze or titanium may be added for repairs to metals. Other epoxy fillers are used for restoring strength to rotted wood or wood damaged by carpenter ants and termites.
Wood Glue
There are many types of wood glue designed to set slowly or quickly depending on the project and your needs. Wood glue sets thin so there no gaps between parts. It is available for interior and water resistant, exterior use. The three basic types of wood glue are PVA (polyvinyl acetate), polyurethane and hide glue.
PVA glues are the traditional wood glues and the most commonly used. They provide a strong bond between wood products but will not bond strongly to other materials such as metal or plastic. It is important to use clamps to hold parts firmly until the glue dries and sets. Any movement during setting time will cause breaks in the bond. PVA’s do not stick well to other glues, so they are not useful in repairing furniture where old glue is the problem. Though the directions will say to remove all old glue before use, this is difficult or impossible to do efficiently for a long lasting repair.
PVA’s are not suitable as a primary adhesive for edge gluing or joining boards to create a wide surface like a table or countertop. Without other fasteners like screws, nails or dowels, they will eventually break apart. PVA glue is not completely waterproof; however, some PVAs are water and mildew resistant.
Polyurethane Glue
Polyurethane glue is one of the best waterproof glues available. It will adhere to wood, metal, stone, ceramic and plastics. It reacts chemically with moisture in the objects being glued, causing expansion and filling cracks for strong, solid glue joint. If products being glued are dry, lightly moisten them to promote this chemical reaction.
With polyurethane glue you will get better results when sanding or staining that with other wood glues. Most other adhesives act as a sealer and do not accept stain. Polyurethane glue has a longer setting time than other glues, allowing time for adjusting clamps and repositioning parts to be glued.
Polyurethane glue has its drawbacks. It expands, causing a mess when it oozes from the glue joint. It is not as easily wiped away as other wood glues, and it’s messy to use. It’s best to wear latex glove when working it or your hands will quickly become sloppy and sticky. Keep alcohol handy for clean up and wiping excess glue away as you work. Once it is dry, it is very difficult to remove and must be cut or sanded away. If it dries on your skin, you can use an abrasive soap, or just wait until it eventually wears off.
Polyurethane has the tendency to harden in the container, once opened, making it difficult to store and use later. This is because moist air becomes trapped in the container. You can try pouring a small amount of mineral spirits into the container when storing, but do not forget to pour it off before using.
Hide glue
Hide glues are made from animal products and are great for making cabinets and furniture. They are available in different setting times for different projects. Some projects require a slower setting time to allow for adjustments. Once set, it is very strong and durable. Hide glues can be reactivated with moisture. When restoring furniture you can remove the old glue with steam. This sensitivity to moisture can cause furniture to fall apart if it is stored in damp areas. The finish applied to furniture will help to prevent this reaction.
Hide glue is not generally available in hardware stores. It is difficult to use and doesn’t have a very long shelf life. It requires heating and mixing to get the right consistency for the job. It has almost become obsolete due to the availability of many other glue products for the average do-it-yourselfer.
Contact Adhesive
Contact adhesive, also known as contact cement, is a special adhesive for gluing nonporous materials. It is commonly used for attaching laminate to particle board for kitchen and bathroom countertops. It works for this purpose because it dries by quick evaporation of a flammable solvent. Other glues would require clamping the materials for a very long time as moisture from the glues would not be able to easily escape for drying and setting. Contact adhesives are already dry before assembly, so this does not create a problem.
Once applied and allowed to dry, the parts can be assembled in minutes and used immediately. There is no room for error; once stuck, it’s stuck for good, leaving no opportunity for repositioning, so careful planning is crucial for a successful finish. Disassembly of glued parts requires damaging the parts.
Follow instructions carefully when using this product. Some materials require a priming coat of adhesive to pre-seal the material to create a strong bond. Problems result from not allowing the adhesive to dry fully before assembly or waiting too long before assembly. Applying too much or not enough also causes a problem.
Some adhesives are flammable; others can emit harmful fumes and require proper ventilation. Some adhesives are only designed to be used with certain materials and can be caustic to other materials. Some adhesives can be harmful if they come into contact with your skin. Use the right adhesive for the right project and follow all instructions to avoid injury to your self or damage to the materials you’re working with.
These tips are being provided by Paul Doughty, owner of HandyPro Handyman Services in El Paso County, Colorado. HandyPro Handyman Services is a one-stop professional, honest and trusted handyman service that does a wide variety of jobs, large and small; all with high-quality, professional workmanship.
Paul Doughty performs minor repairs and improvements for homeowners and associations, businesses, apartment complexes and condominiums in Manitou Springs, Fountain, Monument, Colorado Springs and nearby cities and communities in El Paso County, Colorado.
80829, 80817, 80132, 80902, 80903, 80904, 80905, 80906, 80907, 80908, 80909, 80910, 80911, 80912, 80913, 80915, 80916, 80917, 80918, 80919, 80920, 80921, 80922, 80923, 80924
Handyman Services: Tips for Installing New Cabinets
Do you wish you had more cabinet space? Cabinets improve functionality while adding style to your kitchen, bathroom, utility room, basement and garage. Installing cabinets isn’t as difficult as you might think, so gather your tools, seek the help of an assistant and make a place to hide the unsightly clutter.
Ready-made cabinets are the easiest for the handyman to install. They come in a wide variety of styles to suit your storage needs. Maybe you’re thinking of remodeling your kitchen. If so, you can always re-install your kitchen cabinets in the basement or garage to improve organization.
Begin with some preliminary planning and measuring before you go shopping for your new cabinets. Draw your plan on graph paper or use the computer-aided design programs available at many home improvement stores.
Ready made cabinets come in a wide variety of styles and features. Base units are typically 34-1/2 inches tall and wall units are available in heights of 15, 18, 25, 30, and 42 inches; and widths ranging from 9 inches to 48 inches, in 3 inch increments. Filler strips can be trimmed to accommodate any spaces if you are working on a space that is not a perfect multiple of 3 inches.
Think about your storage needs and decide how you want your finished project to look. Would a bank of drawers be easier to access, or do you prefer shelves? Think about the size of the items to be stored and place the shelves accordingly. Most cabinets are made with adjustable shelves.
You will need a 6 or 8 foot leve, a stud finder, a drill, a soft rubber mallet, some clamps, measuring tape, pencil to mark plumb lines and some basic hand tools. A small pry bar will be helpful in removing the old cabinets, especially if you plan to re-install them in the basement or garage. Use a hole saw for cutting holes for water supply lines if you’re installing a sink cabinet.
Carefully remove the old cabinets, to prevent damage to them or the walls. Once you have the room ready for installing the new cabinets, set them out to inventory what you have and plan where they will be placed.
The job can be a little bit complicated if you need to disconnect plumbing or utility hook-ups, or relocate a sink. Typically, in a kitchen, the sink is centered under a window with cabinets on both sides, making this a good starting point. If you’re installing a corner cabinet, some contractors will make this their starting point. Even the professional handyman will say there is more than one correct approach to this type of project.
Starting with the higher, wall cabinets is a good idea, so you’re not reaching over the lower cabinets to work. This also reduces the risk of damaging the newly installed cabinets. Work with an assistant to make the job easier. Attach a temporary ledger board to rest the back of the cabinet on and use T-Jaks to level the cabinet.
You might choose to begin with the base cabinets and use them to support a shorter jack to hoist the wall cabinets. Be sure to protect the base units with a heavy blanket or padding to prevent damage to them. Remove doors and drawers to reduce the weight of the cabinets for easier maneuverability.
Before mounting cabinets, join two or more sections together. Lay wall units on their backs on a level surface and drive screws through the face frames. Be sure the surface is level, or use shims as you join the units to be sure the ends and faces are flush with each other. Use clamps to hold them firmly; adjust as needed by tapping with a soft mallet. Keep checking the alignment as you drive screws. Drive the screws into the stile on the hinge side of the cabinet where they will be less visible. Make sure the screws are the right length, as long as possible, but at least ¼ inch short of going through the stile when countersunk.
To mount the cabinets to the wall, start by supporting them with T-Jaks. Tack the unit to the wall with one screw, then make adjustments as necessary to be sure they are level; if necessary, add shims to the back of the cabinet where you will be attaching it to the wall. For cabinets with glass doors, place the screws strategically so they are less visible. Use flathead wood screws rather than drywall screws for best results.
Every handyman knows that houses settle over time; floors and walls are rarely plumb and level, so expect to add shims to compensate for these imperfections. Level base cabinets from side-to-side and front-to back, inserting shims where necessary. Be sure to adequately support spaces under joints where two units come together. Make sure corners are square and tops and fronts of all units are flush and level to support the countertop. Use a utility knife to score and snap off the excess shims after attaching the cabinets to the wall.
Sink cabinets are a lot of fun for the handyman. Be sure to accurately measure and cut openings in the cabinets for the water supply lines. Mark the holes by making very careful measurements. A good handyman says “measure twice, cut once” to avoid error. Start by drilling a pilot hole in the center of each circle, then use a hole saw to avoid splintering. For the drainpipe, cut out an oval opening from the outside of the cabinet, so you can slide the unit in place over the two water supply lines.
Finish the job by using pre-finished toe-kick boards which are sold in 8-ft lengths or use ¼ inch plywood, cut to size and finished to match the cabinets. Attach the toe-kicks with silicone adhesive caulk and secure with finish nails. Miter the corners and touch up the ends with stain to match the finish.
There are a variety of techniques a handyman will use to hide gaps and imperfections. I’ve heard a handyman say “a little bit of caulk and paint makes the carpenter what he aint!” Use Minwax Color Putty on joints between components and in nail holes for a nice finished look. Simply rub the putty in with your finger and buff the area with a soft cloth. Use paintable caulk where the cabinet meets the wall, or apply a strip of scribe molding along the edge. Adding a crown molding will enhance the cabinets for a quality look. A continuous crown adds style and makes several units look like a single unit.
Careful planning and proper preparation when purchasing and installing your cabinets will ensure a great looking room for years to come. Take your time and don’t cut corners and your cabinets will provide beauty and organization for your home, not to mention future re-sale value.
Paul Doughty owns HandyPro Handyman Services, specializing in minor repairs and improvements for homeowners and businesses, apartment complexes and condominiums in Colorado Springs, Manitou Springs, Fountain, Monument, and neighboring cities and communities in El Paso County, Colorado and neighboring cities and communities.
80829, 80817, 80132, 80902, 80903, 80904, 80905, 80906, 80907, 80908, 80909, 80910, 80911, 80912, 80913, 80915, 80916, 80917, 80918, 80919, 80920, 80921, 80922, 80923, 80924
Ready-made cabinets are the easiest for the handyman to install. They come in a wide variety of styles to suit your storage needs. Maybe you’re thinking of remodeling your kitchen. If so, you can always re-install your kitchen cabinets in the basement or garage to improve organization.
Begin with some preliminary planning and measuring before you go shopping for your new cabinets. Draw your plan on graph paper or use the computer-aided design programs available at many home improvement stores.
Ready made cabinets come in a wide variety of styles and features. Base units are typically 34-1/2 inches tall and wall units are available in heights of 15, 18, 25, 30, and 42 inches; and widths ranging from 9 inches to 48 inches, in 3 inch increments. Filler strips can be trimmed to accommodate any spaces if you are working on a space that is not a perfect multiple of 3 inches.
Think about your storage needs and decide how you want your finished project to look. Would a bank of drawers be easier to access, or do you prefer shelves? Think about the size of the items to be stored and place the shelves accordingly. Most cabinets are made with adjustable shelves.
You will need a 6 or 8 foot leve, a stud finder, a drill, a soft rubber mallet, some clamps, measuring tape, pencil to mark plumb lines and some basic hand tools. A small pry bar will be helpful in removing the old cabinets, especially if you plan to re-install them in the basement or garage. Use a hole saw for cutting holes for water supply lines if you’re installing a sink cabinet.
Carefully remove the old cabinets, to prevent damage to them or the walls. Once you have the room ready for installing the new cabinets, set them out to inventory what you have and plan where they will be placed.
The job can be a little bit complicated if you need to disconnect plumbing or utility hook-ups, or relocate a sink. Typically, in a kitchen, the sink is centered under a window with cabinets on both sides, making this a good starting point. If you’re installing a corner cabinet, some contractors will make this their starting point. Even the professional handyman will say there is more than one correct approach to this type of project.
Starting with the higher, wall cabinets is a good idea, so you’re not reaching over the lower cabinets to work. This also reduces the risk of damaging the newly installed cabinets. Work with an assistant to make the job easier. Attach a temporary ledger board to rest the back of the cabinet on and use T-Jaks to level the cabinet.
You might choose to begin with the base cabinets and use them to support a shorter jack to hoist the wall cabinets. Be sure to protect the base units with a heavy blanket or padding to prevent damage to them. Remove doors and drawers to reduce the weight of the cabinets for easier maneuverability.
Before mounting cabinets, join two or more sections together. Lay wall units on their backs on a level surface and drive screws through the face frames. Be sure the surface is level, or use shims as you join the units to be sure the ends and faces are flush with each other. Use clamps to hold them firmly; adjust as needed by tapping with a soft mallet. Keep checking the alignment as you drive screws. Drive the screws into the stile on the hinge side of the cabinet where they will be less visible. Make sure the screws are the right length, as long as possible, but at least ¼ inch short of going through the stile when countersunk.
To mount the cabinets to the wall, start by supporting them with T-Jaks. Tack the unit to the wall with one screw, then make adjustments as necessary to be sure they are level; if necessary, add shims to the back of the cabinet where you will be attaching it to the wall. For cabinets with glass doors, place the screws strategically so they are less visible. Use flathead wood screws rather than drywall screws for best results.
Every handyman knows that houses settle over time; floors and walls are rarely plumb and level, so expect to add shims to compensate for these imperfections. Level base cabinets from side-to-side and front-to back, inserting shims where necessary. Be sure to adequately support spaces under joints where two units come together. Make sure corners are square and tops and fronts of all units are flush and level to support the countertop. Use a utility knife to score and snap off the excess shims after attaching the cabinets to the wall.
Sink cabinets are a lot of fun for the handyman. Be sure to accurately measure and cut openings in the cabinets for the water supply lines. Mark the holes by making very careful measurements. A good handyman says “measure twice, cut once” to avoid error. Start by drilling a pilot hole in the center of each circle, then use a hole saw to avoid splintering. For the drainpipe, cut out an oval opening from the outside of the cabinet, so you can slide the unit in place over the two water supply lines.
Finish the job by using pre-finished toe-kick boards which are sold in 8-ft lengths or use ¼ inch plywood, cut to size and finished to match the cabinets. Attach the toe-kicks with silicone adhesive caulk and secure with finish nails. Miter the corners and touch up the ends with stain to match the finish.
There are a variety of techniques a handyman will use to hide gaps and imperfections. I’ve heard a handyman say “a little bit of caulk and paint makes the carpenter what he aint!” Use Minwax Color Putty on joints between components and in nail holes for a nice finished look. Simply rub the putty in with your finger and buff the area with a soft cloth. Use paintable caulk where the cabinet meets the wall, or apply a strip of scribe molding along the edge. Adding a crown molding will enhance the cabinets for a quality look. A continuous crown adds style and makes several units look like a single unit.
Careful planning and proper preparation when purchasing and installing your cabinets will ensure a great looking room for years to come. Take your time and don’t cut corners and your cabinets will provide beauty and organization for your home, not to mention future re-sale value.
Paul Doughty owns HandyPro Handyman Services, specializing in minor repairs and improvements for homeowners and businesses, apartment complexes and condominiums in Colorado Springs, Manitou Springs, Fountain, Monument, and neighboring cities and communities in El Paso County, Colorado and neighboring cities and communities.
80829, 80817, 80132, 80902, 80903, 80904, 80905, 80906, 80907, 80908, 80909, 80910, 80911, 80912, 80913, 80915, 80916, 80917, 80918, 80919, 80920, 80921, 80922, 80923, 80924
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Handyman Services: Drywall Repair Tips
Drywall Repair Starts with the Right Tools
Drywall repair and installation is much easier if you have the right tools for the job. Using inferior drywall tools could produce unsatisfactory results. Drywall repair, installation and finishing takes time and effort; begin with the correct tools to do the job right.
There is no need to by the professional tools like the combination mud and tape dispensers unless you are planning to go into the drywall installation business; however, you do need to choose quality tools. Here are the basic tools the do-it-yourselfer needs for repairing or installing drywall:
Mud Pan – Choose a stainless steel pan that won’t rust; do not use the plastic pan with the metal strip which tends to rust.
Drywall Knife – Choose a 4 – 4-1/2 inch steel knife; one with a good quality name that won’t rust. This is the one to use with taping because it fits into the joints where two beveled edges of drywall meet, making it easier to imbed the tape.
Finishing Knife – Choose a good quality, 10” steel knife for the finishing coat to feather out the edges of the seam.
Corner Tool – Some people prefer the plastic but there are good quality steel corner tools too.
Other tools include a tape measure, T-Square, utility knife, drywall saw and a cordless drill/driver.
There are some basic supplies you will need as well:
Tape – Professionals prefer the paper tape; some homeowners like the mesh tape. Paper tape is much easier to cover and the best choice for taping seams.
Mud – All Purpose Joint Compound is the easiest to use and the least expensive. It comes in two different kinds; the one in the green bucket is the best. You can also buy the powder and mix it, but it hardens quickly and is only recommended for professional use.
Drywall Screws – Do not substitute a different type of screw; be sure to use drywall screws.
Once the drywall repair is done and the mud is dry you will need to sand it. Either use sandpaper or drywall sanding screen. Both come in various grit count for early sanding and final, finish sanding.
Even the do-it-yourselfer should choose high quality tools to get the best results; however, it isn’t necessary to buy professional tools. For the hand tools, be sure to choose brand names that you know are high-quality.
Paul Doughty owns and operates HandyPro Handyman Services, a one-stop professional, honest and trusted handyman service who does a wide variety of jobs; large and small; all with high-quality workmanship. Paul services consumers and businesses in Colorado Springs, Manitou Springs, Fountain, Monument, and neighboring cities and communities in El Paso County, Colorado.
80829, 80817, 80132, 80902, 80903, 80904, 80905, 80906, 80907, 80908, 80909, 80910, 80911, 80912, 80913, 80915, 80916, 80917, 80918, 80919, 80920, 80921, 80922, 80923, 80924
Drywall repair and installation is much easier if you have the right tools for the job. Using inferior drywall tools could produce unsatisfactory results. Drywall repair, installation and finishing takes time and effort; begin with the correct tools to do the job right.
There is no need to by the professional tools like the combination mud and tape dispensers unless you are planning to go into the drywall installation business; however, you do need to choose quality tools. Here are the basic tools the do-it-yourselfer needs for repairing or installing drywall:
Mud Pan – Choose a stainless steel pan that won’t rust; do not use the plastic pan with the metal strip which tends to rust.
Drywall Knife – Choose a 4 – 4-1/2 inch steel knife; one with a good quality name that won’t rust. This is the one to use with taping because it fits into the joints where two beveled edges of drywall meet, making it easier to imbed the tape.
Finishing Knife – Choose a good quality, 10” steel knife for the finishing coat to feather out the edges of the seam.
Corner Tool – Some people prefer the plastic but there are good quality steel corner tools too.
Other tools include a tape measure, T-Square, utility knife, drywall saw and a cordless drill/driver.
There are some basic supplies you will need as well:
Tape – Professionals prefer the paper tape; some homeowners like the mesh tape. Paper tape is much easier to cover and the best choice for taping seams.
Mud – All Purpose Joint Compound is the easiest to use and the least expensive. It comes in two different kinds; the one in the green bucket is the best. You can also buy the powder and mix it, but it hardens quickly and is only recommended for professional use.
Drywall Screws – Do not substitute a different type of screw; be sure to use drywall screws.
Once the drywall repair is done and the mud is dry you will need to sand it. Either use sandpaper or drywall sanding screen. Both come in various grit count for early sanding and final, finish sanding.
Even the do-it-yourselfer should choose high quality tools to get the best results; however, it isn’t necessary to buy professional tools. For the hand tools, be sure to choose brand names that you know are high-quality.
Paul Doughty owns and operates HandyPro Handyman Services, a one-stop professional, honest and trusted handyman service who does a wide variety of jobs; large and small; all with high-quality workmanship. Paul services consumers and businesses in Colorado Springs, Manitou Springs, Fountain, Monument, and neighboring cities and communities in El Paso County, Colorado.
80829, 80817, 80132, 80902, 80903, 80904, 80905, 80906, 80907, 80908, 80909, 80910, 80911, 80912, 80913, 80915, 80916, 80917, 80918, 80919, 80920, 80921, 80922, 80923, 80924
Handyman Services in El Paso County – Tips for Maintaining your Vinyl Floor
Your new vinyl floor is a beautiful, long lasting, durable product that will withstand years of use and some abuse, but it can be permanently damaged if it is not cared for properly. Here are some recommended handyman tips for maintaining your vinyl floor.
Wipe up all spills as soon as possible and mop regularly with a no-rinse floor cleaner. Use a floor stripper and cleaner for heavy duty cleaning and a no-wax shine keeper if it begins to dull over time.
Our handyman advises that you do not use detergents or abrasive cleaners. Certain mop and shine products may leave a dull film on the floor. Do not use paste wax or solvent-based polishes. Do not vacuum with a beater bar because it can visibly damage the floor surface and do not use highly abrasive scrubbing tools.
There are steps you can take to prevent damage to your vinyl floor. When moving heavy furniture or appliances, lay plywood and “walk” the item across it to avoid scuffing and tearing the vinyl. Use floor protectors on furniture to reduce indentation. The heavier the item, the wider the floor protector you need. Furniture with metal protectors can leave deep indentations and leave rust stains. Some rolling casters can also do damage. If you must use casters, the double-wheel type is your best option.
Place a mat at the entrance to reduce the amount of dirt that is tracked into the house. Rubber or latex- backed mats are not recommended because the chemical used to keep the backing from becoming brittle can permanently stain the floor. Use a non-staining vinyl-backed mat or a colorfast rug.
Our handyman advises preventative measures you can take immediately after installing your new vinyl floor. Be sure to protect sealed seams for at least 8 hours after installation to ensure a proper seam bond. If seams not protected until they’re dry, permanent damage can result.
Maintain room temperature of at least 65 degrees for 48 hours after installation to assure proper curing, setting and bonding of products. Take care to avoid spills and dirt for at least five days after installing as mopping is not recommended on a new vinyl floor because the adhesive needs time to dry thoroughly.
Vinyl flooring is quite durable, but it is not stain-proof. Many stains are removable, but some are not. Be careful when using stain removal products, testing them first in inconspicuous places to be sure they do not dull or damage the finish. Wipe spills quickly, as soon as the happen to reduce staining.
Read labels on floor stain removal products to be sure they are appropriate for vinyl floors. Many stains can be removed with alcohol, mineral spirits or turpentine. Scrub the area with floor stripper and cleaner, using a nonabrasive scrubbing pad. Read and follow all instructions on the label. Nail polish remover can also be used for some stains, sparingly and carefully, washing thoroughly after using.
Your vinyl floor requires very little maintenance besides regular cleaning. Be careful when using new products and be sure to pre-test in places that are not noticeable to avoid permanent damage to your floor. Use care when moving furniture and appliances. Read all labels on cleaning products to be sure they are specifically designed for vinyl floors.
Paul Doughty owns HandyPro Handyman Services, specializing in minor repairs and improvements for homeowners and associations, businesses, apartment complexes and condominiums in Colorado Springs, Manitou Springs, Fountain, Monument, and neighboring cities and communities in El Paso County, Colorado.
80829, 80817, 80132, 80902, 80903, 80904, 80905, 80906, 80907, 80908, 80909, 80910, 80911, 80912, 80913, 80915, 80916, 80917, 80918, 80919, 80920, 80921, 80922, 80923, 80924
Wipe up all spills as soon as possible and mop regularly with a no-rinse floor cleaner. Use a floor stripper and cleaner for heavy duty cleaning and a no-wax shine keeper if it begins to dull over time.
Our handyman advises that you do not use detergents or abrasive cleaners. Certain mop and shine products may leave a dull film on the floor. Do not use paste wax or solvent-based polishes. Do not vacuum with a beater bar because it can visibly damage the floor surface and do not use highly abrasive scrubbing tools.
There are steps you can take to prevent damage to your vinyl floor. When moving heavy furniture or appliances, lay plywood and “walk” the item across it to avoid scuffing and tearing the vinyl. Use floor protectors on furniture to reduce indentation. The heavier the item, the wider the floor protector you need. Furniture with metal protectors can leave deep indentations and leave rust stains. Some rolling casters can also do damage. If you must use casters, the double-wheel type is your best option.
Place a mat at the entrance to reduce the amount of dirt that is tracked into the house. Rubber or latex- backed mats are not recommended because the chemical used to keep the backing from becoming brittle can permanently stain the floor. Use a non-staining vinyl-backed mat or a colorfast rug.
Our handyman advises preventative measures you can take immediately after installing your new vinyl floor. Be sure to protect sealed seams for at least 8 hours after installation to ensure a proper seam bond. If seams not protected until they’re dry, permanent damage can result.
Maintain room temperature of at least 65 degrees for 48 hours after installation to assure proper curing, setting and bonding of products. Take care to avoid spills and dirt for at least five days after installing as mopping is not recommended on a new vinyl floor because the adhesive needs time to dry thoroughly.
Vinyl flooring is quite durable, but it is not stain-proof. Many stains are removable, but some are not. Be careful when using stain removal products, testing them first in inconspicuous places to be sure they do not dull or damage the finish. Wipe spills quickly, as soon as the happen to reduce staining.
Read labels on floor stain removal products to be sure they are appropriate for vinyl floors. Many stains can be removed with alcohol, mineral spirits or turpentine. Scrub the area with floor stripper and cleaner, using a nonabrasive scrubbing pad. Read and follow all instructions on the label. Nail polish remover can also be used for some stains, sparingly and carefully, washing thoroughly after using.
Your vinyl floor requires very little maintenance besides regular cleaning. Be careful when using new products and be sure to pre-test in places that are not noticeable to avoid permanent damage to your floor. Use care when moving furniture and appliances. Read all labels on cleaning products to be sure they are specifically designed for vinyl floors.
Paul Doughty owns HandyPro Handyman Services, specializing in minor repairs and improvements for homeowners and associations, businesses, apartment complexes and condominiums in Colorado Springs, Manitou Springs, Fountain, Monument, and neighboring cities and communities in El Paso County, Colorado.
80829, 80817, 80132, 80902, 80903, 80904, 80905, 80906, 80907, 80908, 80909, 80910, 80911, 80912, 80913, 80915, 80916, 80917, 80918, 80919, 80920, 80921, 80922, 80923, 80924
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Colorado Springs Handyman Services has Tips for the Painting Contractor
When you handyman service applies a fresh coat of paint to the new home you just purchased, you probably prefer they use a latex or water-based paint. There are certain rules painting contractors use when preparing the pre-painted surface before applying fresh paint, to ensure proper adhesion, good coverage and a long-lasting finished project. Before applying fresh paint to an already painted surface, a good handyman will determine whether it was previously painted with latex or oil-based paint. The handyman knows he could experience problems when painting with latex, if he is painting over a surface with oil-based paint, without first using a primer. Some people just go ahead and prime when in doubt; however, painting contractors advise that it is better to minimize the number of paint coats on a surface.
Is it Latex or Oil Base?
There are several ways painting contractors will use to determine if an existing paint is latex or oil. Oil paints are smooth while latex paints have a more rubbery feel; this is easier to see with glossier paints than with flat or matte finish paints. Another method is to rub an area of the painted surface with alcohol or a paint de-glosser or liquid sandpaper. If the surface becomes slightly tacky or a small amount of the paint is removed then the existing paint is latex. This should not happen with oil-based paint.
Prep the Surface First
Your painting contractor should use a de-glosser or liquid sandpaper to remove the gloss and clean the surface before painting on a surface previously painted with latex paint. This will make the next coat of paint adhere more firmly to the surface with minimal, if any, sanding required. The tackiness will normally disappear within an hour. A surface where oil-based paint was used should be lightly sanded and primed with a quality primer like Kilz, before applying a fresh coat of latex paint.
If there are holes to be filled, the handyman should use proper filler. The old-time spackle is fine for walls of plaster, but today’s softer walls of paper-coated drywall are better filled with a softer product. Spackle works best when the container is new; it dries out over time. Attempting to renew it by adding moist spackle to it is like adding sand to new spackle. It also causes it to lose strength, go on the wall lumpy and it’s hard to smooth with the trowel. A newer, lightweight spackle is a workable product that dries quickly and can be painted over within 30 minutes. This is great if you’re in the middle of painting and you notice a small hole that was missed in preparation.
Proper preparation is important before applying a fresh coat of paint; an unprepared surface will result in an unsatisfactory finished project. The rewards of a durable finish are well worth the extra effort in preparation of the surface.
Paul Doughty owns HandyPro Handyman Services, a one-stop, professional, honest handyman service that does a wide variety of jobs with high-quality workmanship. Paul Doughty serves consumers and businesses in Colorado Springs, Manitou Springs, Fountain, Monument, and neighboring cities and communities in El Paso County, Colorado.
80829, 80817, 80132, 80902, 80903, 80904, 80905, 80906, 80907, 80908, 80909, 80910, 80911, 80912, 80913, 80915, 80916, 80917, 80918, 80919, 80920, 80921, 80922, 80923, 80924
HandyPro Handyman Services completes everything on your to-do list; in over 1600 service categories including Carpentry, Plaster & Drywall, Acoustic Ceilings, Grout Tub, Fix Leaky Faucet, Home Warranty/Maintenance, Paint Home, Caulk Bathtub, Replace Locks, Garage Doors, Cabinets & Countertops, Fix Running Toilet, Repair Squeaky door, Install Molding and Trim, Security Services, Stained Glass, Door Repair/Install, Wall Repair, Painting Kitchen, Insulation, Concrete & Masonry, Repair Gutters, Remove Wallpaper, Replace Ceiling Fan, Caulk Awnings and Siding, Install Shelves, Organizers, Ceramic Tile, Window Well Covers, Replace Bathroom Fan, Draperies, Blinds and Shades, Glass & Mirror, Decks, and much more just ask!!
Is it Latex or Oil Base?
There are several ways painting contractors will use to determine if an existing paint is latex or oil. Oil paints are smooth while latex paints have a more rubbery feel; this is easier to see with glossier paints than with flat or matte finish paints. Another method is to rub an area of the painted surface with alcohol or a paint de-glosser or liquid sandpaper. If the surface becomes slightly tacky or a small amount of the paint is removed then the existing paint is latex. This should not happen with oil-based paint.
Prep the Surface First
Your painting contractor should use a de-glosser or liquid sandpaper to remove the gloss and clean the surface before painting on a surface previously painted with latex paint. This will make the next coat of paint adhere more firmly to the surface with minimal, if any, sanding required. The tackiness will normally disappear within an hour. A surface where oil-based paint was used should be lightly sanded and primed with a quality primer like Kilz, before applying a fresh coat of latex paint.
If there are holes to be filled, the handyman should use proper filler. The old-time spackle is fine for walls of plaster, but today’s softer walls of paper-coated drywall are better filled with a softer product. Spackle works best when the container is new; it dries out over time. Attempting to renew it by adding moist spackle to it is like adding sand to new spackle. It also causes it to lose strength, go on the wall lumpy and it’s hard to smooth with the trowel. A newer, lightweight spackle is a workable product that dries quickly and can be painted over within 30 minutes. This is great if you’re in the middle of painting and you notice a small hole that was missed in preparation.
Proper preparation is important before applying a fresh coat of paint; an unprepared surface will result in an unsatisfactory finished project. The rewards of a durable finish are well worth the extra effort in preparation of the surface.
Paul Doughty owns HandyPro Handyman Services, a one-stop, professional, honest handyman service that does a wide variety of jobs with high-quality workmanship. Paul Doughty serves consumers and businesses in Colorado Springs, Manitou Springs, Fountain, Monument, and neighboring cities and communities in El Paso County, Colorado.
80829, 80817, 80132, 80902, 80903, 80904, 80905, 80906, 80907, 80908, 80909, 80910, 80911, 80912, 80913, 80915, 80916, 80917, 80918, 80919, 80920, 80921, 80922, 80923, 80924
HandyPro Handyman Services completes everything on your to-do list; in over 1600 service categories including Carpentry, Plaster & Drywall, Acoustic Ceilings, Grout Tub, Fix Leaky Faucet, Home Warranty/Maintenance, Paint Home, Caulk Bathtub, Replace Locks, Garage Doors, Cabinets & Countertops, Fix Running Toilet, Repair Squeaky door, Install Molding and Trim, Security Services, Stained Glass, Door Repair/Install, Wall Repair, Painting Kitchen, Insulation, Concrete & Masonry, Repair Gutters, Remove Wallpaper, Replace Ceiling Fan, Caulk Awnings and Siding, Install Shelves, Organizers, Ceramic Tile, Window Well Covers, Replace Bathroom Fan, Draperies, Blinds and Shades, Glass & Mirror, Decks, and much more just ask!!
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